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This week, family and friends crossed international borders and
military checkpoints and overcame the usual political bureaucracies to
attend my daughter's two weddings. Why two weddings? Let me explain.
Like me, my daughter Tamara is a Jerusalemite. The bridegroom, Alaa, lives in the Bethlehem-area town of
Beit Jala.
It takes minutes to move between these adjacent towns, but they are
kilometres away because of the 45-year-old political and military
situation caused by Israel's occupation of Arab lands.
The situation is further complicated by the
unilateral Israeli decision to annex Jerusalem.
So, according to Israeli law (which not a single country, including the
U.S., recognizes), Jerusalem became part of Israel and therefore under
civilian Israeli rule, Beit Jala is occupied territory and the two are
separated by
walls and
checkpoints. Moreover, Israel provides residency to Palestinians in
Jerusalem, but not citizenship. Well, one may apply for citizenship, but
it is not guaranteed that one will get it, and if one gets it, life is
further complicated (as thousands of East Jerusalemites have found out)
because Jordan gives temporary passport to the stateless Jerusalemites
and does not allow entry if one gains Israeli citizenship as an East
Jerusalemite. Israeli residency is attested by the blue Israeli ID that
Jerusalemites get once they reach the age of 16. This ID allows
Jerusalemites to travel in and out of Jerusalem and Israel. However,
this Israeli ID card is valid only so long as one lives in Jerusalem. If
one leaves Jerusalem for an extended period, one loses the right to
live or even visit Jerusalem, gets treated as a tourist, and the
Israelis have the right to control what to visit. Which brings me to the
crossing of international borders.
As with any wedding, guests come from near and far. Visitors from the
U.S. made it, but after much grueling and unnecessary interrogation at
borders. At
Ben Gurion Airport,
my sister and her Mennonite husband had to explain why one of her sons
had the Arabic name of Jamil. My brother was detained for four hours,
and called a liar because he accurately told Israelis that he was born
in New Jersey.
While some family members were delayed and harassed, they did finally
make it. Another group of family and friends living in Jordan escaped
questioning at the border. Along with a church group of 28 Jordanians,
they applied for a group visa to the holy land. The tour agency
regularly conducts such tours and they insist that groups apply one
month earlier. They did. However, one day before the wedding (two days
after their scheduled tour) the Israeli interior ministry answered by
allowing only 18 out of the group of 28 to visit. Among those refused
were the pastor of the Amman Christian Missionary Alliance Church and
his wife (who used to come many times), a 70-year-old Jordanian, a
retired woman and two of our nieces. Out of the 18, only 10 decided to
make the trip, many declining to come without the spouse or relative
that was arbitrarily denied entry.
But why the two weddings? Tamara, our daughter, works in Jerusalem and uses a car with Israeli yellow plates (to be accurate,
my car, which she has de facto commandeered). Tamara can drive
between Jerusalem and Beit Jala without a problem.
Alaa, who lives in Beit Jala, is not allowed to travel or live in
Jerusalem without a permit. Neither is he allowed to sleep overnight in
Jerusalem, or drive the car, unless he gets a special permit. These
permits are next to impossible to get if one is not a Jerusalem
resident.
To apply for family reunification so that he can travel and stay in
Jerusalem and Israel is very complicated. The process which used to take
a few years can now take more than 10 years and permit is not
guaranteed. In order to start the process of bringing a spouse to live
(and drive) into Jerusalem, one needs to prove that Jerusalem and/or
Israel is the center of one's life.
Lawyers strongly encourage couples to document their connectivity to
Jerusalem, and marrying in Jerusalem is one such act. However, since
Ala'a family and friends live in Beit Jala, this tends to be a problem,
while it is possible to get a permission for some family members to
attend a Jerusalem wedding, it is very hard to get permits for everyone
and thus the idea came to have two back-to-back weddings -- one at 4
p.m. in Beit Jala followed by a 6:30 p.m. wedding in Jerusalem, and then
back to a reception/dinner party back in Bethlehem.
Carrying out such logistical nightmare can only have been done by a
film producer who can juggle four watermelons at the same time.
Thankfully my son Bishara was able to do such a feat. Using the wedding
invitation, permits of course were sought and received from the Israeli
civilian administration in Etzion for the groom, the best man and close
family members. Traveling from Beit Jala to Jerusalem was not easy.
Permit holders, including groom and family, had to use the Rachel's Tomb
(much longer) crossing point. Others with foreign passports or
Jerusalem IDs (including the Jordanian smaller contingency) could use
the much faster tunnel checkpoint (frequently used by settlers). I was
on the bus using the tunnel but we were still stopped and a soldier went
up to the bus and checked every single traveler. The young soldier took
his time and got stuck questioning one rather good-looking female
relative. When we intervened with his officer who came up to ask him the
reason for the delay, he replied in Hebrew using the term
mazgan
(air conditioning). It seemed that in the heat of the day the soldier
preferred the coolness of the air conditioned bus than the sweltering
heat of the outdoor checkpoint. As we were delayed we had to figure out
what the best (and cheapest) way to communicate everyone had cell phone
but Palestinian's Jawwal and Wataniya cell phones don't work in
Jerusalem and certain Israeli cell companies have no agreement with the
Palestinian companies.
Thankfully our logistics chief has a two sim card cell phone with
Jawwal and Orange and we succeeded in getting word of our delay at the checkpoint and made to the
Nazarene Church on Nablus Road
by 6:45. The groom being transported by a friend waiting on the other
side of the checkpoint made it almost at the same time. The bride in an
air conditioned car of a Jerusalem friend got to circle around the
church until groom and our bus arrived and we had the second wedding and
then headed back to a wonderful party that lasted till after midnight.
After two weddings and scores of checkpoints, nerves and
difficulties, the happy couple decided to spend their honeymoon in
Thailand. And since the groom is not allowed to use the Ben Gurion
Airport, that means one more difficult crossing point: the
King Hussein Bridge.
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